Q: What are they good for?
What aren't they good for is a more fitting question. Goats are a multi-purposed animal, with many benefits that make them valuable and respected all across the world. They were one of the first domesticated animals, and there is good reason for that.
Milk
Their milk is easier to digest than cows. Goats also produce more milk pound by pound, compared to their body weight and amount of feed, than cows.
Fresh goat milk that is properly handled is rich and delicious. Goat milk should not be bitter unless 1: The goat is copper deficient, drying up, or has mastitis; 2: The milk is old; or 3: You have a breed bred for cheese production, which can cause a stronger taste.
More people worldwide drink goat milk than any other kind of milk.
Fresh goat milk that is properly handled is rich and delicious. Goat milk should not be bitter unless 1: The goat is copper deficient, drying up, or has mastitis; 2: The milk is old; or 3: You have a breed bred for cheese production, which can cause a stronger taste.
More people worldwide drink goat milk than any other kind of milk.
Meat
Picture courtesy of Candice Chavez.
When bred for it, goats are very hardy creatures, who take up less space than cows, and are easier to handle for routine care, such as hoof trimming and deworming.
Goat meat is much like venison, but more tender. Some people prefer the stronger tasting meat of bucks, and some prefer the milder wether (castrated buck) meat. Nothing will taste or feel better in your stomach than humanely raised meat.
If you breed dairy goats, many breeders chose to harvest excess wethers (castrated bucks). There are only so many pet homes out there for wethers, and many breeders feel it is better to give them a short and happy life, than to compromise on home quality.
Goat meat is much like venison, but more tender. Some people prefer the stronger tasting meat of bucks, and some prefer the milder wether (castrated buck) meat. Nothing will taste or feel better in your stomach than humanely raised meat.
If you breed dairy goats, many breeders chose to harvest excess wethers (castrated bucks). There are only so many pet homes out there for wethers, and many breeders feel it is better to give them a short and happy life, than to compromise on home quality.
Work
Picture courtesy of B.Iles Harness.
A well trained goat that has a close bond with its handler is a very willing pack and harness goat. They enjoy adventure and can travel long distances.
Goats can be trained to pull carts or go packing with you just about anywhere. Wethers are especially great for this line of work.
Goats have also been therapy animals, providing emotional support to their owners, or being brought into nursing homes.
Goats can be trained to pull carts or go packing with you just about anywhere. Wethers are especially great for this line of work.
Goats have also been therapy animals, providing emotional support to their owners, or being brought into nursing homes.
Fiber
Picture courtesy of Sweet Goats Farm.
Cashmere wool is luxurious and versatile. Cashmere and Angora goats are bred for their fiber. Even goats that are not bred for fiber production have a silky, fluffy undercoat they grow for winter. This fiber has many different uses. Felting and spinning are only two of the options the fiber goat presents.
Companion
These are affectionate herd animals, capable of forming the same kind of bonds with their owners as can be enjoyed from a dog or a cat.
As prey animals, they need to be raised with love and care so that they learn to trust and respect people. They can be trained to walk on a leash, potty trained, and clicker trained.
As prey animals, they need to be raised with love and care so that they learn to trust and respect people. They can be trained to walk on a leash, potty trained, and clicker trained.
Q: How do I prepare for my goat?
Research as much as possible. Don't make whim decision to buy a goat, they are complicated creatures that can be expected to live between 10 to 15 years. The most important thing I can suggest is that you buy from a respectable breeder or rescue that will take you under their wing. They should be there to answer your questions and guide you through this journey. Never buy from anyone who isn't excited to answer your questions.
Beginner's checklist:
For more detailed information, check out the "Basic Health" tab.
For more detailed information, check out the "Basic Health" tab.
*Hay and roughage: If you have plenty of pasture with non-poisonous brush, that will make them happy as a bird. However, they can also be very well maintained on hay, when pasture is not plentiful. Hay must be free of mold, and of poisonous weeds. Goats are toddlers that mouth things they aren't supposed to, but when it comes to their actual diet, they are often pickier and have more sensitive tummies than horses do. Goats should not be fed "cattle hay", or hay that is unsuitable for horses. This can cause disease such as listeria. Depending on your location, hay alone may be enough for your pet goat's diet, other than water and minerals. All goats, pet or no, should have hay or roughage (trees, brush), as the main pillar of their diet to keep their rumen healthy.
*Water: If you are feeding water via buckets, it will have to be given fresh daily; twice daily is even better. They don't like old water (who does!), and won't drink enough of it if it is old. Does who don't drink enough water will not produce milk. Bucks and wethers who don't drink enough water can develop urinary blockages, known as UC (Urinary Calculi).
*Minerals: Goats are mountain animals. Our soil, in many parts of the country, has been overfarmed and does not have a high enough mineral content for goats to thrive. Goats can be given a loose, goat-specific mineral, or an herbal mineral source. They often cannot get what they need from a mineral block, and it can wear down their teeth. I like to add ammonium chloride to my boys' minerals to help prevent UC. Often, despite having plenty of loose minerals, goats may need to be copper bolused or given selenium supplements throughout the year. Copper especially is essential for a goat's immune system.
*Shelter: Goats must have shelter from the wind and rain. A rule of thumb is three sides and a roof - with enough of a "lip" in the entrance so they can tuck out of the rain. Goats do not tolerate rain well. Calf huts can work well for a pair of goats. Clean their bedding when it becomes soiled; especially if it is giving off a strong ammonia smell. Urine-soaked bedding can give them urine scald, and aid in the development of respiratory infections. If there are predators in your area, I strongly advise shutting your goats in at night, when predators are most active.
*Fencing: A four to five foot high, woven wire fence does a great job. The holes should be small enough for a goat not to put its head through, as then babies will be able to escape, and larger goats may strangle themselves. Keep climbing toys away from the fence so they cannot be used as launching pads. If predators are in the area, consider adding a hotwire to the outside of the fence, or increasing fence height. Fence posts should be on the outside of the goat fence. Goats love to rub on the fence, and the fence posts being on the outside of their enclosure will increase the stability to the fence.
*Hoof trimmers: They'll need their hooves trimmed approximately once every two months. They may be able to go longer, if you live on rocky soil. Have a breeder or goat owner show you how to do this. I like to have them on the milk stand with a treat for this time, but you can also tie them to the fence or have someone hold them for you.
*Dewormer: Worms are a big struggle for goats. Keep an eye on your goats' condition. Loose stools, rough coat, losing weight, pale eyelids, and stunted growth are all possible signs of a wormload. I recommend you feed your goats off the ground, to reduce goats re-infecting themselves by eating fecal-contaminated food. I choose to deworm herbally, and use Land of Havilah dewormer on a twice weekly basis. Parasites, thus far, seem unable to build any resistance to herbal dewormers, but for them to be effective, fresh herbs should be used. When my goats need an extra "boost", I add a small dose of oregano essential oil to their dewormer. I have yet to find an effective herbal treatment for coccidia.
If you deworm chemically, you should run a fecal before deworming to be sure you're giving them the right chemical, and not just adding to parasite resistance. Not every dewormer works for every worm, so if you do not run a fecal, you may be treating for the wrong worm.
*Water: If you are feeding water via buckets, it will have to be given fresh daily; twice daily is even better. They don't like old water (who does!), and won't drink enough of it if it is old. Does who don't drink enough water will not produce milk. Bucks and wethers who don't drink enough water can develop urinary blockages, known as UC (Urinary Calculi).
*Minerals: Goats are mountain animals. Our soil, in many parts of the country, has been overfarmed and does not have a high enough mineral content for goats to thrive. Goats can be given a loose, goat-specific mineral, or an herbal mineral source. They often cannot get what they need from a mineral block, and it can wear down their teeth. I like to add ammonium chloride to my boys' minerals to help prevent UC. Often, despite having plenty of loose minerals, goats may need to be copper bolused or given selenium supplements throughout the year. Copper especially is essential for a goat's immune system.
*Shelter: Goats must have shelter from the wind and rain. A rule of thumb is three sides and a roof - with enough of a "lip" in the entrance so they can tuck out of the rain. Goats do not tolerate rain well. Calf huts can work well for a pair of goats. Clean their bedding when it becomes soiled; especially if it is giving off a strong ammonia smell. Urine-soaked bedding can give them urine scald, and aid in the development of respiratory infections. If there are predators in your area, I strongly advise shutting your goats in at night, when predators are most active.
*Fencing: A four to five foot high, woven wire fence does a great job. The holes should be small enough for a goat not to put its head through, as then babies will be able to escape, and larger goats may strangle themselves. Keep climbing toys away from the fence so they cannot be used as launching pads. If predators are in the area, consider adding a hotwire to the outside of the fence, or increasing fence height. Fence posts should be on the outside of the goat fence. Goats love to rub on the fence, and the fence posts being on the outside of their enclosure will increase the stability to the fence.
*Hoof trimmers: They'll need their hooves trimmed approximately once every two months. They may be able to go longer, if you live on rocky soil. Have a breeder or goat owner show you how to do this. I like to have them on the milk stand with a treat for this time, but you can also tie them to the fence or have someone hold them for you.
*Dewormer: Worms are a big struggle for goats. Keep an eye on your goats' condition. Loose stools, rough coat, losing weight, pale eyelids, and stunted growth are all possible signs of a wormload. I recommend you feed your goats off the ground, to reduce goats re-infecting themselves by eating fecal-contaminated food. I choose to deworm herbally, and use Land of Havilah dewormer on a twice weekly basis. Parasites, thus far, seem unable to build any resistance to herbal dewormers, but for them to be effective, fresh herbs should be used. When my goats need an extra "boost", I add a small dose of oregano essential oil to their dewormer. I have yet to find an effective herbal treatment for coccidia.
If you deworm chemically, you should run a fecal before deworming to be sure you're giving them the right chemical, and not just adding to parasite resistance. Not every dewormer works for every worm, so if you do not run a fecal, you may be treating for the wrong worm.
Q: Where do I buy my goat?
I strongly recommend you steer clear of the auction house. Good animals can be found there, but the auction is where many people take their sick, unwanted, and problem goats. If the goat isn't sick when it gets there, it could have come in contact with other sick animals.
I would recommend that you buy from a responsible breeder, or rescue, that has spent the time to ensure his or her goat is healthy, friendly, disease-free, and well-behaved. All of these factors are incredibly important for handling your goat. A good breeder will answer all of your questions honestly, without becoming defensive. CL, CAE, and JOHNES are the three more serious goat diseases. Breeders and rescues alike should test for them. There should be no signs of sickly goats, or any sort of abscesses (unless they are injection bumps from vaccinations). I have read complaints that breeders are more expensive than the auction, but most breeders do not even break even while raising goats. The money you spend buying a healthy goat will often save you on heartbreak and vet bills later.
Red flags to look out for:
*Scraggly looking goats. Bucks during rut can look rough, and does post-kidding or currently struggling with a health issue will also not look their best - but most of the goats on the property should have soft coats, bright eyes, well-trimmed hooves, clean living quarters, fresh food & water, and a happy look to them. If you're seeing a herd of sad goats, run away. Don't take home a less than stellar-looking animal. Sending someone home with an ill animal is cruel to the buyer and the animal. Sick animals going through the stress of changing homes is not a good recipe, and you don't want to deal with the stress of nursing it back to health unless you really know what you're doing. A responsible breeder will want to set you and the animal up for success.
*Touchy breeder. A breeder should not be offended by your questions. If they don't want to answer your herd management questions, or act like you've just committed a crime by wondering if they disease test, that's a bad sign. Not only is that shifty, but you want a breeder that will help you when you need help in the future, not make you feel silly or ignore your problems.
*No questions. It may sound strange, but you want the breeder or rescue to ask you questions. Questions show that they are responsible and concerned for the welfare of their herd. They shouldn't be desperate to pawn their goat off on you. I would rather take a loss of a sale than to wonder if my goat ended up in a good home. Don't be offended, be glad your goat has such a caring caretaker. It's a sign they've been well loved.
*Touchy breeder. A breeder should not be offended by your questions. If they don't want to answer your herd management questions, or act like you've just committed a crime by wondering if they disease test, that's a bad sign. Not only is that shifty, but you want a breeder that will help you when you need help in the future, not make you feel silly or ignore your problems.
*No questions. It may sound strange, but you want the breeder or rescue to ask you questions. Questions show that they are responsible and concerned for the welfare of their herd. They shouldn't be desperate to pawn their goat off on you. I would rather take a loss of a sale than to wonder if my goat ended up in a good home. Don't be offended, be glad your goat has such a caring caretaker. It's a sign they've been well loved.
Q: Do goats need company?
Goats, with rare exceptions, are herd animals and need a goat friend. Goats without a friend can develop behavioral issues such as chronic anxiety, aggression, and insecurity. They need friends to play headbutt with - otherwise they will start butting you, and that should not be allowed. A lone herd animal in the wild is in the most danger of becoming prey. Living in the herd gives them a sense of safety.
Generally the only goats who prefer to be alone are the ones who were raised that way, and no longer can speak fellow goat language. A llama or a horse may suffice, but no other animal can fulfill their need for companionship like a fellow goat. Additionally, horses play differently than goats, which can result in them accidentally killing their goat companion. Some goats can successfully be kept alone if they are potty trained (yes, it's been done!) and kept inside with their humans to provide the companionship they need.
One thing I want to stress: Dogs should not be kept with goats. Many goats have been maimed by their owner's dogs when the owner's back was turned. Even little dogs chasing the goat causes much undue stress on the goat. This can happen to anyone. Your dog shouldn't be living with the goats unless it is a born, trained, and raised livestock dog, from a livestock guardian specific breed. If you allow your dog around your goat, be sure you are always there to supervise.
Do not buy a doe as a companion for your buck, or a buck as your companion for a doe. The doe will be constantly harassed, and the buck will have no one to really play with and may hurt her during pregnancy. They will end up needing to be separated when the doe kids, as the buck will be in danger of impregnating his daughters, or re-breeding the doe before she is ready. Unless you use a contraception device (like an olor) and have a large enough area to give each other space, bucks should be kept with another buck, and does should be kept with another doe, or wether. Of course, if you just want pets, two wethers together will be just fine as well.
Generally the only goats who prefer to be alone are the ones who were raised that way, and no longer can speak fellow goat language. A llama or a horse may suffice, but no other animal can fulfill their need for companionship like a fellow goat. Additionally, horses play differently than goats, which can result in them accidentally killing their goat companion. Some goats can successfully be kept alone if they are potty trained (yes, it's been done!) and kept inside with their humans to provide the companionship they need.
One thing I want to stress: Dogs should not be kept with goats. Many goats have been maimed by their owner's dogs when the owner's back was turned. Even little dogs chasing the goat causes much undue stress on the goat. This can happen to anyone. Your dog shouldn't be living with the goats unless it is a born, trained, and raised livestock dog, from a livestock guardian specific breed. If you allow your dog around your goat, be sure you are always there to supervise.
Do not buy a doe as a companion for your buck, or a buck as your companion for a doe. The doe will be constantly harassed, and the buck will have no one to really play with and may hurt her during pregnancy. They will end up needing to be separated when the doe kids, as the buck will be in danger of impregnating his daughters, or re-breeding the doe before she is ready. Unless you use a contraception device (like an olor) and have a large enough area to give each other space, bucks should be kept with another buck, and does should be kept with another doe, or wether. Of course, if you just want pets, two wethers together will be just fine as well.
Q: What gender should I get?
For pets, wethers and does are both great choices. Does and wethers do not stink. There are almost always wethers to be found; they are harder to sell because they cannot breed, or make milk. I have found, in general, that wether pets are slightly more cuddly, and doe pets are more playful. Of course, more than gender, this is an individual personality thing. The only complication with pet wethers is their diet. For more on that, click here.
Please, don't keep your pet buck intact. Don't get me wrong, I love my bucks, but if you are just looking for a pet, a buck is not for you. They smell very strongly during breeding season (rut). The smell doesn't bother me much, but it does stick to clothing and skin. When breeding season hits they will begin peeing all over their beard and front legs, sometimes causing urine scald. During rut especially, their brains turn off, and they require more space to spar with their herd-mates. If they don't have does to breed, they won't be happy boys. Don't keep a buck intact unless you use him for breeding.
Please, don't keep your pet buck intact. Don't get me wrong, I love my bucks, but if you are just looking for a pet, a buck is not for you. They smell very strongly during breeding season (rut). The smell doesn't bother me much, but it does stick to clothing and skin. When breeding season hits they will begin peeing all over their beard and front legs, sometimes causing urine scald. During rut especially, their brains turn off, and they require more space to spar with their herd-mates. If they don't have does to breed, they won't be happy boys. Don't keep a buck intact unless you use him for breeding.
Q: What do I feed them?
Q: How about (insert other topic here)?
For more information, try our "Basic Health" page!
Goat care resources
~You can always email us at [email protected] if you need help.
~The Goat Spot. This forum is filled with breeders who have many years of experience, and many different breeds, lifestyles, and views.
~The Goat Spot. This forum is filled with breeders who have many years of experience, and many different breeds, lifestyles, and views.